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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Pepper

By Charlotte Zander

Burnet saxifrage is a perennial herb up to 60 cm (2 ft) high that was used in cookery long ago but not very often nowadays. The botanical name for the genus is a corrupted version of the Latin word `bipinclIa' referring to the twice-pinnate leaves. It was already known to the ancient Greeks, who called it ckaukalis'.

It is used to this clay as a medicinal plant for its diuretic as well as digestive and expectorant properties. In the Middle Ages it was believed to ward off the plague.

The delicately-scented, mildly pungent leaves with a cucumber-like flavour are used for flavouring. These are eaten as a salad by southern Europeans, the same as the leaves of Burnet (Sanguisorba minor). The young basal leaves are the tastiest if picked before the flower stem begins to grow.

The berries are harvested before they ripen when they are still green or yellow (they are red when ripe) - this is done over a period of several months as the berries ripen in succession. Pepper is the most widely consumed of all seasonings because of its many uses not only in the kitchen but also at the table (no table is properly set without salt and pepper). It is used either whole or ground, by itself or in a wide variety of mixtures for flavouring meat, sausages, fish, soups, sauces, vegetables, salads and so on.

The tree is evergreen and grows up to 13 m (43 ft) high. It has large aromatic leaves up to 10 cm (4 in) long and equally aromatic bark that peels off regularly every year. The small whitish flowers are arranged in terminal clusters. The berries are divided into two chambers with one seed in each. When ripe they are coloured red and lose their aroma. They are therefore harvested while still green, being picked by hand and dried in the sun.

The smooth berries become wrinkled as they dry. A single grown-up tree yields up to 40 kg (90 lb) of dry berries a year. The best allspice comes from Jamaica; it is also raised in Guatemala, Honduras and Brazil. Mexican allspice has larger fruits but they are less aromatic.

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